I have a history with motorcycle trips that happen at the “wrong” time of year. So, when the idea to ride on the South Island on the cusp of winter first came up, it immediately seemed like the perfect fit for me. You see, I’ve never been particularly fortunate with being at the right place at the right time. But I’ve also never let that hold me back. “Right place, wrong time” is good enough for me, as long as there’s a motorcycle involved.
Speaking of which, one of the things that got me out the door was the opportunity to put some real mileage on the new KTM 390 ENDURO R. I’ve done my fair share of ADV travel in different parts of the world and quite enjoy how approachable and forgiving the KTM 390s can be. But it’s nice to have something with a more distinct character too. And that’s why I’d been waiting eagerly for the KTM 390 ENDURO R to show up on New Zealand’s shores.
Starting the ride from Auckland meant that I had considerable distance to cover before the real riding began. With less than three weeks for the whole trip, I was looking for the fastest route to the ferry. The KTM 390 ENDURO R seemed to be on the same page and made surprisingly easy work of the run down to Wellington.
It was only once I was off the ferry and settled in Picton that I was brave enough to look at the weather forecast. Skimming through the gloom, I found what I was looking for - the promise of a spell of sunshine along the East Coast and in Central Otago. That would do just fine.
What followed was two weeks of absolute riding bliss. Sheltered by the Southern Alps, I crafted a route South that switched between Canterbury's scenic coastline and excellent backcountry roads. With many well-known roads closed for the season, finding the nicer route took more effort, but also felt more rewarding. Once amidst the vibrant fall colours in Central Otago things got even better. Scenic highways dissolved into gravel and bridges were replaced by rocky river crossings. Even popular routes like the Nevis Road and Dansey’s Pass felt like forgotten highways where the only traffic consisted of grazing cattle and the occasional ute. For a change, it truly felt like I was at the right place at the right time.
It was not all smooth sailing, of course. There were entire days that were washed out, and others that were better forgotten. Most days were bitingly cold, and every weather check came with the possibility of grim news and more road closures. But, in many ways, the uncertainty made it feel like more of an adventure.
Despite the challenges, the KTM 390 ENDURO R proved to be an able companion at every step of the way. Kitted out with my light and compact Viaterra luggage, the motorcycle hit that sweet spot between comfort and capability. It really has the right mix of poise and aggression to inspire the confidence needed to choose the more adventurous route. I am no skilled off-road rider, yet I found myself genuinely looking forward to the next section that would challenge my capabilities. That shift in mindset is perhaps the greatest compliment you can pay any touring motorcycle - even if it doesn’t carry the word “adventure” in its name.
For me, this trip was a reminder that there is no perfect method to finding a good adventure. Often, all you need is one questionable idea and the willingness to see where it will take you.