Part 1
In 2025, I was lucky enough to join Edelweiss Motorcycle Tours for a 10-day adventure called “Road to Romania”. The trip included the European KTM Rally in Sibiu, Romania.
The tour began in Lengua, Austria, with 18 riders from around the world. We travelled through Admont, Austria, Maribor, Slovenia, before continuing over the next two days to Pécs in Hungary and Timișoara in Romania. Along the way, we visited the KTM Motohall and wine regions and sampled plenty of local food – Hungarian goulash was a favourite. With no major mishaps, we finally arrived at the KTM Rally in Romania.
Romania was on another level – and is a story in itself. Riding part of the 2025 Red Bull Romaniacs course was nothing like we expected! But this trip is all about Italy …
Part 2
In early January 2026, Edelweiss Motorcycle Tours announced “Ride to Italy”, another European KTM Rally event. Riders from the previous year – and their friends – were given first dibs. The call went out: “Who’s in?” By 20 January, we had set up a WhatsApp group of 10 mates from across Australia, all keen to join. Between us, we had completed more than 60 rallies in Australia, bringing plenty of experience and a shared appetite for fun and adventure. We ranged in age from 50 to 67.
The Group:
Lurch from Yamba
Roberto from Launceston
Pagey and Ice from Melbourne
Knuckles from Bendigo
Sac, Woodsy and Rod from Ballarat
Lachie and Jav from Darwin
After months of banter, useful information and plenty of misinformation, we met in Munich. The Saturday before the rally was the first time the whole group had been together. We spent two days sightseeing at Dachau, the Eagle’s Nest and Salzburg, swimming in the Isar River, and sampling local food and drink.
Day 1 – Munich to Erding
We met the tour company and the other participants in Erding, a small German town 40 kilometres east of Munich. There were 17 riders, including 10 Australians – what could go wrong? Our three guides were Michael, Felix and Thomas, supported by a van driver and rider, Fabian. Waiting in the car park were 20 brand-new KTM 890s and a new 1390. After a pre-dinner briefing on the dos and don’ts, we headed to a local hotel to get acquainted.
With the bikes prepared, the jet lag behind us and boxing-kangaroo stickers on our helmets, we were ready.
Day 2 - Erding to Lake Atter
We set out for the KTM Motohall and a factory tour. The weather was perfect and the German scenery impressive as we crossed into Austria. After a few minor bike adjustments, everyone began to settle in.
Inside the KTM Motohall, the first thing we saw was a huge photograph of six bikes on a coastal road. A closer look revealed the Great Ocean Road in Victoria – and three of us were in the shot! All of the 10 Australian riders are involved in, or will ride, the 2027 KTM Australia Adventure Rallye, and the image came from the promotional video filmed at Easter. Elsewhere in the Motohall, the full Australian promotional video played on repeat, and we watched it over lunch. Special thanks to Rosie!
We were not the only Australians featured. Dakar legends Toby Price and Daniel Sanders held pride of place among displays of famous bikes, inspiring videos and photographs. The museum also traced KTM’s full history, from its first motorcycle to the latest Grand Prix machines. It was a memorable experience for everyone.
After lunch, we made a quick visit to one of KTM’s factories. The workshop prepares the company’s off-road bikes for racing and transport. Two KTM trucks were away – one bound for Africa and the Dakar truck heading to the KTM Rally in Italy. A new KTM 690 RALLY was also sitting in a crate, ready for a promotional expo.
Day 3 – Lake Atter to Lienze
We made a brisk start, riding beside calm Lake Atter with the Alps in the background. Morning tea was at Postalm, one of the many small ski fields we passed. More mountain passes led us to lunch overlooking Lake Zell. We were truly in the Alps, sitting high above uninterrupted views. Even the narrow road to the restaurant was memorable, with cows along the way and little room to pass an oncoming car. Traditional Austrian food prepared us for the Großglockner Pass.
At 2,428 metres, the Großglockner High Alpine Road is Austria’s highest surfaced mountain pass. At the toll road, our guides stepped back and simply said, “Enjoy yourselves.” With sweeping bends and tight corners, it had everything. Ten Australian’s charged up the mountain with one goal: do not be the last to reach the Edelweissspitze summit. The ride delivered great laughs and spectacular views.
After the Großglockner Pass, we visited the Pasterze, Austria’s largest glacier – the day just kept delivering. We spent the night in Lienz, a historic medieval town set between mountain ranges. It was the perfect place to unwind after another great day.
Day 4 Lienz to Obereggen
After an early start and one mountain pass, we crossed into Italy and stopped for morning tea at a roadside café at the foot of the pass – Italian style.
By mid-morning, we were riding through the Puster Valley towards the Panoramica delle Vette in Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s Carnia region. The road shifted abruptly from sweeping bends to dirt, demanding a quick adjustment. Over 35 kilometres, it climbed to 2,000 metres through countless hairpins and changing elevations. Dodging rocks while watching the steep drop beside us required complete concentration, but the views when we stopped were spectacular.
Soon after, we stopped for lunch in Vigo di Cadore. We had reached the Dolomites.
The Dolomites are renowned for skiing, mountaineering, cultural experiences and other outdoor pursuits. That day, blue skies framed jagged, pale peaks rising above lush green valleys. Part of the Southern Limestone Alps, the range covers 350,649 acres. Its steep climbs, hairpin bends and dramatic scenery gave us another unforgettable day.
We spent the night at an Obereggen ski resort overlooking the pale Dolomite peaks. A few lagers beside the outdoor pool were the perfect finish to another excellent day.
Day 5 – Obereggen to Castelfranco Veneto
Our second day in Italy was even better. The morning delivered a series of steep, winding passes and breathtaking views, with the Manghen Pass a clear highlight. Twisting through the Lagorai mountain range, it was tight, technical and less forgiving than the main Dolomite passes. Narrow roads and blind corners kept the possibility of oncoming traffic front of mind. After surviving the morning, we stopped for lunch at Funivie Lagorai, another ski area, with cows nearby and temperatures in the 30s.
After lunch, part of the planned route proved impassable, so we needed a Plan B. Our quick-thinking young guides suggested following part of the Trans Euro Trail, a network of roughly 100,000 kilometres of off-road GPX routes created by adventure riders. We were heading to a KTM Rally, so why not?
It was good to be off-road again, even if road tyres and pressures were not the ideal setup. The route was hot, dusty, rocky, tight and decidedly technical. There were a couple of unauthorised dismounts – but none by the Aussie’s. It was a solid warm-up on the forest roads.
Back on the bitumen, we headed to Monte Grappa, a mountain rich in First and Second World War history, and rode the famous road to its summit. We set off in three groups. The first was led by Michael, a 25-year Edelweiss Tours veteran, who set a blistering pace – his brake light did not come on once, either on the climb or for the entire trip. We were in the third group, riding wheel to wheel as the pace increased and keeping our young Finnish guide, Felix, busy. When he made a hand gesture, we mistook it for conceding the race. In fact, he was pointing to a dirt track up the mountainside that he wanted us to try. Sorry, Felix – looks like you’re finishing last.
Most riders used headsets, so the chatter never stopped. The day’s catchcry was “Push, push, push.” If you overtook someone, you made sure they heard about it loud and clear. Great fun.
That night, we stayed at a Castelfranco Veneto hotel with a large pool – ideal for unwinding.
Day 6
We eased into the day with more winding roads and a short transport section. A traditional Saturday lunch at a local Bologna eatery was a definite highlight.
After lunch, the roads remained winding as we headed for the Raticosa Pass, which links Bologna and Florence and is a popular gathering place for motorcyclists. Its bends were broader than the Alpine switchbacks we had ridden earlier in the week. We soon discovered we were not alone: groups of bikes swept past at speed, with some erratic riding mixed in. At the summit, the Chalet felt like an open-air clubhouse, surrounded by hundreds of motorcycles. Ice creams and a quick drink prepared us for the descent.
On the descent, we passed the Mugello Circuit. The track has hosted motorcycle Grands Prix for 50 years and is renowned for its high speeds. Sadly, we were not allowed to demonstrate our skills.
Rolling into the accommodation, the group was treated to a Tuscan sunset, with pink skies over the landscape’s earthy tones. The early arrivals relaxed by the pool with local drinks and the same beautiful view. Our villa dated from around the 14th century and had been converted into a hotel with gardens and sweeping regional views. Postcard material.
Day 7
We were bound for Gubbio and the European KTM Rally. Gubbio is a medieval town with a history stretching back to 6000–3000 BCE – far too much to list here.
After a morning briefing against a Tuscan backdrop, we returned to the region’s winding roads. By lunchtime, temperatures had climbed into the mid-30s under cloudless skies. After a quick lunch and gelato, we decided to take the shortcut and head for the hotel pool.
Once settled into our accommodation, we went to registration, where each bike received new Mitas rally tyres and the GPS files for the coming days.
Day 8
Day 8 was a rest day, giving everyone time to sort out bike and gear issues before the rally. We explored Gubbio’s historic streets and took the cable car to the hilltop Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo on Mount Ingino, where we looked across the town and the country we were about to ride.
That night, we joined the 250-strong KTM crowd for dinner in the marquee. It was loud, and everyone was excited about the next three days. South African Joey Evans kept the energy high as MC, with competitions and plenty of banter. Dakar stars Luciano Benavides and Edgar Canet shared stories and future ambitions before tackling the event on their thumping 450 Rally bikes. Chris Birch was also there, riding the new 690 RALLY.
The riders’ briefing was brief and focused on the heat and the need to stay hydrated.
The routes were colour-coded by difficulty: blue for the main course, black for the hardest sections and red for something in between. This was a GPS-only event, with no arrows or hazard warnings. Transponders were fitted and returned each day. Fill the hydration pack and get ready.
Day 9
The Rally – Day 1
We split into smaller groups according to our appetite for difficulty and left late to avoid the main pack. Most of us aimed high and chose the black route. Rocky forest tracks led us through small Italian villages, demanding complete concentration and delivering excellent riding.
As expected, the black route was tough. Part of a European Hard Enduro course, it had everything – including plenty of stationary bikes. Maintaining momentum while overtaking was difficult, and some of us needed help. Special thanks to Chris Birch, who recognised our helmets and immediately stopped to assist. When you are over 60, stuck on a black route in 35-degree heat, why wouldn’t you let Birchy ride that section? Much appreciated, mate.
After the black route, we stopped for food and, more importantly, hydration. The afternoon brought more of the same, minus the black section: plenty of hill climbs, loose rocks and thick dust that demanded caution.
It was a great first day, but the heat took its toll. Some riders drank up to six litres of water, and everyone was glad to return to the hotel pool.
That night, we swapped stories over dinner in the KTM marquee while Joey kept the energy high. Then it was early to bed.
Day 10
The Rally – Day 2
The sun was out again, and the day began much like the first. By mid-morning, we could no longer tell whether we were on a black, blue or red route. Traffic jams formed on steep hills. Most climbs were manageable, but the switchbacks near the top caused problems, while camera crews captured the pushing and shoving. A clear run from the bottom gave you half a chance of weaving around the fallen bikes. On one memorable hill, about 10 bikes were queued ahead while three riders pushed machines around a switchback. With nowhere to go, we heard the thump of a 450 approaching from behind. Surely it would stop – there was no room to pass. Ten seconds later, the bike was high on the slope beside us. Luciano had missed a stump, hit it hard and slid down the incline, leaving all of us beside our bikes. After plenty of laughter and apologies, we reminded him that Chucky would have made a clean pass. It was a memorable way to meet a Dakar Champion.
Several punctures followed, along with another memorable two-kilometre climb covered in football-sized rocks. We felt every one of them. As on the first day, the dust was thick and unavoidable.
With only two nights left in Gubbio, we chose a local dinner. Surrounded by medieval buildings and cobblestones, we ate outdoors and enjoyed regional food and drink with friends and Edelweiss Bike Travel owner Tobias Wachter. The atmosphere was relaxed and memorable.
Day 11
The Rally - Day 3
The morning began with one clap of thunder, then another. A huge dark cloud hung over Gubbio, although the rain had not yet started. By the time we finished breakfast and reached the KTM sign-out, it was pouring. Anyone using a phone for GPS soon had a problem.
The dust was gone, replaced by rain, mud and slippery rocks. What might have been a moderate black section in dry conditions became a queue of around 30 riders stuck in the mud. Everyone inched forward, making the track worse. After about 20 minutes, officials closed the section and turned us around; only one rider from our group had cleared the congestion. On the descent, we rejoined our other group. Wet, slippery climbs demanded cautious riding, and cloud and fog hid the track as we crossed the mountain range. We regrouped at lunch and traded stories of narrow escapes. After KTM’s group meal, another puncture and trails similar to the morning followed. Careful GPS navigation was essential because several turns were easy to miss and some descents were steep. As the rain eased, conditions improved, and the 890s handled the tracks well.
I do not know how many of the 250 riders took part that day, but it felt less intense than the first two – less chaos, and no dust.
The atmosphere at our final dinner in the KTM marquee was electric. Awards were presented and the KTM organisers thanked. The Aussie’s did well: Sac, Ice and Pagey won recognition for completing the most KTM rallies, and our table produced the room’s second-strongest grip in a hand-pressure contest. Go Pagey.
The band struck up and the dancing began, celebrating everything we had just experienced. We said goodbye to new and old Edelweiss friends and their fantastic staff. The adventure was complete, and it was hard to fault any part of the trip.
Hats off to Edelweiss Bike Tours and KTM for an unforgettable experience – a feeling shared by every Australian rider who made the journey.
Day 12
Our time in Gubbio was over. At 9 am, a private bus collected us for Rome. The journey was quiet compared with the previous days, although our bus driver’s questionable skills added some excitement. We toured Rome on a hop-on, hop-off bus and finished with a quiet dinner. We were almost out of steam.
Day 13
We were up at 5 am for a bicycle tour of Rome, organised by Sophie, the daughter of one of our group. We watched the AFL final over lunch at a hotel, visited a rooftop bar in the afternoon and gathered for our final dinner.
Day 14
The group split up and headed home with lifelong memories – and a few aches and pains.
The story of the group that kept saying yes – and never said no – will be told for years. None of us is getting younger, and few things look after the spirit better than a motorcycle adventure. Over two weeks, we met people of different ages and cultures from around the world while experiencing new countries and remarkable places.
Fast-forward six weeks, and we were back home putting the finishing touches on the Australian KTM Adventure Rallye. Armed with fresh international experience, it promises to be the best yet! We cannot wait.
And the full action from the KTM ADVENTURE RALLY EUROPE can be viewed here – enjoy!